Gale warning have been up for the past few days, as autumn arrives for real, which means... raking leaves. It also is time to look around the yard to see what is wanting for attention.
A year ago we had to take a few large trees out. One of them ended up as a totem pole, courtesy of my father's talents. Though we share some small bit of Native American blood, it is not from a tribe that practiced this tradition. Still, it seemed worthwhile, and he worked a few family images into the project.
First we experimented and produced a fine guard for my daughter's backyard fort. Fun.
Then my Dad got involved and crafted this 25-foot totem. More fun. It turns out, after much research that the National Parks Department learned that high-copper paint would be the proper environmentally acceptable preservative for the base. They had it specially formulated. I gather they had never heard of bottom paint. Before the bottom paint they suggested soaking the base in a borax/glycol mixture, which we prepared by dissolving about 2-3 pounds of borax in 1 gallon of ethylene glycol (concentrate antifreeze would work) at about 200F (heated on the stove). Several coats soaked in over 2 days did a fine job; as of 5-1-2015 there is not trace of rot. The glycol mix, after drying for a week, did not reject the paint.
Ken Frye - Watercolorist
But there is a point to this rambling discussion. My Dad opened a gallery show in Vienna, Virginia today. He's been painting and selling water colors and prints, generally of ocean and architectural themes, since I was small. Cape May, New Jersey was a favorite location, became a summer home for us, and influenced in no small way my interest in sailing. If you have visited Cape May, are interested in maritime scenery, or simply appreciate art, give my Dad's blog a gander.
There are circumstances when a splice cannot be beat: chain to rope splice, spinnaker sheet to shackle or other snag-prone spot, or to the becket of a block where a knot would be too bulky. There are other times when a knot is a better choice: a dingy tackle that is easily tangled and frequently re-rove, a halyard that is prone to jamming in the head block, or a halyard that will be reversed or trimmed for wear. I like them on spinnaker halyards since they provide a big ball for me to hang on to (although I understand that on some rigs they can be snag prone at the mast head - it is all a mater of geometry). Many times a simple bowline will do the job; it is easily untied and compact. It is also a mere 45% strength knot and can come loose if tied loosely or with a too-short tail.
Standard figure-8 A common figure-8 is an 75% strength knot that is bulkier and more difficult to untie. It is, however, the gold-standard for mountaineers, and they stake their lives on its security and dependability. Even after a good hard fall it is not too difficult to untie, though saltwater and time do seem to make this more difficult.
Figure-8, Yosemite finish
The figure-8 can be improved upon; take the tail around the standing part again and feed it through the first turn. This increases the strength, makes it more secure against working loose, and makes it easier to untie. Three for one!
This has become my favorite mountaineering tie-in, and I have tested it through more than a few falls, as well as failure-testing it against both splices and standard figure-8s. It is less than line strength, but not by very much.
But what about chafe? A thimble won't work, but there is another solution, well proven on industrial lifting slings and used on my boat for 15 years: cover the wear area - the thimble location - with nylon or polyester tubular webbing. 1inch webbing for line up to 1/2-inch (12 mm) and 2-inch webbing for larger line; a 3-6-inch length will do. The webbing will move with the sharp spots and rope will only feel nylon sliding on nylon, it will protecting this critical area from sun, and eliminate all wear. I believe it out-performs a thimble in many applications and is certainly a safer choice for the beginning splicer, where the thimble many not be as securely positioned as needed and can shift. I have used tubular webbing "thimbles" on mooring lines and high-tec halyards, and the knot or thimble has never been the failure point.
With the passage of one of the strongest northeasters in many years, the changeable inlets of the Eastern Shore have done just what they naturally do in response to stress; they have changed. After a few conversations with some fisherman and one sailor heading south for the winter, I have a few revisions to offer:
Additionally, I have revised and expanded some Delaware Bay information between the Cohansey River and Bidwell Creek on the Jersey side.
An American businessman was at the pier of a small South Pacific island village when a small proa with just one fisherman docked. Inside the small proa was a dorado and several large grouper. The American complimented the Islander on the quality of his fish and asked how long it took to catch them.
The Islander replied, "Only a little while."
The American then asked why didn't he stay out longer and catch more fish?
The Islander said he had enough to support his family's immediate needs.
The American then asked, "But what do you do with the rest of your time?"
The fisherman said, "I sleep late, fish a little, play with my children, take a late afternoon nap with my wife, Helia, and then in the evening after dinner I stroll into the village where I sip rum and play guitar with my friends. I have a full and busy life."
The American scoffed, "I am a Harvard MBA and can help you. You should spend more time fishing and with the proceeds, buy a bigger boat. With the proceeds from the bigger boat you could buy several boats; eventually you would have a fleet of fishing boats. Instead of selling your catch to a middleman you would sell directly to the processor, and soon you would open your own cannery. You would control the production, processing, and distribution. Of course, you would need to leave this small fishing village and move to Australia, then Los Angeles and eventually New York City, from where you could better run your expanding enterprise."
The South Seas fisherman asked, "But, how long will this all take?" to which the American replied, "15–20 years."
"But what then?"
The American laughed and said "that's the best part. When the time is right you would announce an IPO and sell your company stock to the public and become very rich. You would make millions."
"Millions, really? Then what?"
The American said, "Then you retire. Move to a small fishing village where you sleep late, fish a little, play with your grandkids, take a late afternoon nap with your wife, and then in the evening after dinner, stroll into the village to sip rum and play your guitar with your friends."
Borrowed. I have no idea where this came from; I have seen many versions on the net and edited this one to suit my sense of story telling.
Many complain that chain beats up the deck. Place heavy duty non-skid from the roller to windlass.
I've seen all sorts of lashings holding anchors while underway. A simple pin through the chain works very well and is FAST to release. Mine is home-made from 3/16-inch aluminum, but I believe you can buy them. I would not call this a chain lock - it won't take the strain - but it works better with mixed chain/fiber rodes than available chain locks because it is out of the way when open and permits easy man-hauling when needed. With a fiber rode you snub the rode on a cleat, anyway.
In my case, I always use a bridle and the rode is not loaded. With a catamaran the rode would suffer serious abuse and chafe due to exiting the the bow roller at a 40-60 degree angle. To protect the bridle I use 2-inch tubular climbing webbing (http://www.rei.com/product/472049) where it crosses the bow chock.
In the picture we have stopped for a swim in fine weather. In serious weather or when we leave the boat for a time, the rode would be cleated-off, as a back-up.
I've noticed that many of these boats have a problem with the bolt rope being strained in the corner, bringing a premature death to the trampoline. There is not enough lacing support and this is a high-impact area, due to sailors stepping down off the cabin roof. A few extra laces are just the ticket: simply add 3 small stainless straps (1" x 1/8" x 2" 316 SS) with a 1/4-inch hole drilled in each end. Round the holes well to avoid chafe.
Protecting marine water systems from ice damage is the simplest of aims, but the terms and product claims are confusing. A little education goes a long way. Yup, you can blow the system out with air or drain it; that is not the topic I am speaking to today.
Toxicity
For the potable water systems on a boat there is only one reasonable alternative: propylene glycol (PG), the active ingredient in virtually all marine and RV antifreeze products. Identified by the FDA as “generally recognized as safe” it has very low toxicity to people and mammals and no identified long-term health effects at modest doses. It can be used in toothpaste and foods; over 1 pint/170 pounds is required to be fatal. Ethylene glycol (EG), commonly used in automotive engine coolant, is toxic to people and mammals when ingested; less than ½ cup per 170 pounds is expected to be fatal. Neither is carcinogenic or causes any adverse health effects at incidental exposure levels. Both glycols have a sweet taste. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) are a convenient source of information, widely available on the internet.
Marine toxicity is a different matter; both ethylene glycol and propylene glycol are low in toxicity, and there is no established difference between for fish, crabs, or marine grass. Toxic effects require 4-20% of either glycol—levels which cannot be approached with small spills because of immediate dilution. Biodegradability is also equal; both are as easily degraded as food wastes. Claims that propylene glycol is more biodegradable or friendly to the marine environment are offered without relevant basis or back-up; we have searched high and low—the research says they are the same. See http://www.riskworld.com/Abstract/1996/sraeurop/ab6ad040.htm and MSDS information.Thus, for engine and head antifreeze, there is no strong reason to prefer PG over EG.
Glycerin has been suggested as a natural glycol substitute: don’t do it. It is a poor antifreeze agent, is more difficult to rinse off, does not dry, and gets very thick in cold weather. Glycerine is also more toxic than generally understood; better than ethylene glycol, but twice that of propylene glycol. Drugstore glycerine bottles now carry a warning against excessive use on baby's skin. Not all "natural" products are safe.
Ethylene glycol, rat oral, 4,700 mg/kg
Glycerine, rat, oral, 12,600 mg/kg
Proplyene glycol, rat oral, 25,000 mg/kg
Unavoidably, some glycol will find its way back into the water after launching. Try to minimize this loss; both are pollutants and both lower dissolved oxygen levels when they degrade.
Why does this matter?
Compatibility Not all materials like polypropylene glycol. The rubber parts (neoprene) in water pumps (impellers) and heads (joker valves and o-rings) are stiffened by PG. Even worse, some plastics, notably polyamide (nylon) strainers can craze and fail. The strainer below was ruined in just two seasons. Because it is in the fresh water system where I must use PG for safety, I now simply leave it out for the winter, but I cringe at the materials I don't know about. However, it is this sort of materials compatibility issues that has completely blocked PG from OEM engine coolants. You can buy them in the aftermarket, sold under the false claim that they are better for the environment. However, they are not good for the car and using them is a risk.
Burst Point
A fuzzy term without ASTM or other industry accepted standard test. It is generally recognized as the temperature where the entire mixture has become solid, though expansion may begin before this. Strong and tough materials (steel pipe) resist the strain of expanding ice better than weak and brittle materials (cast iron and PVC), and yet manufacturers of RV antifreeze seem to be “optimistic” when compared to major glycol producers’ data.
The freeze point has an ASTM recognized definition and test method; it is the temperature where the first ice crystals form. Automobiles and any system that is to be operated in cold temperatures must be protected to the freeze point to insure reliable pumping with no ice crystal present.
As for those materials that claim -100F or -200F burst point material, there is no science to support it; all EG and PG mixtures freeze solid before -65F is reached. This is lying, plain and simple; notice that DOW does not make such silly claims. Educated industrial buyers know better.
Another word of caution for those that would use the minimum amount; when antifreeze is subjected to freeze/thaw cycling, the ice crystals float, and the glycol rich solution sinks. There will be some separation, and the burst point at the top of a complex pipe system can be much greater that the predicted value. This is common in large, complex piping systems.
Fermentation is a concern if less than 25% (that -50F burst point stuff) is used. With just a few bacteria or yeast and a little warm weather before launching, weak glycol can turn into a repulsive mixture, reminiscent of a half bottle of Thunderbird found under the seat of a used car. Sailors complain about the taste the glycol leaves behind--most often it is the fermentation products they are tasting, not the glycol. Fermented glycol also becomes very acidic and corrosive, with a pH of <5 .="" 25="" air="" alcohol="" an="" and="" as="" been="" brandy="" by="" commercial-scale="" conditioning="" dow="" extensively="" fermentation="" has="" if="" important="" in="" inhibited.="" is="" it="" like="" others="" over="" p="" problem="" studied="" systems.="" this="" used="">
The glycol content of a product is best measured with a refractometer calibrated for the glycol used. Most can test EG, PG, and battery acid—very handy—and are available for about $50. No mechanic should be without one. Glycol content is also listed on manufacturer supplied MSDS sheets, though it is conspicuously absent from packaging labels. Very curious indeed. Please note the price information below is VERY market dependent. Winter 2008 was high, Winter 2009 is much lower and I have not up-dated the table.
Vol. %
Propylene Freeze Burst Price (2008)
Product Glycol Point, F Point, F $/lb PG
***Camco Ban Frost 2000 97 -60 -60 $1.85
Camco Freeze Ban -100 64 -63 -63 $1.89
Camco Freeze Ban -50 32 5 -25 $3.84
*Star-brite -200 RV / Marine 97 -60 -45 drums only
Star-brite -100 RV / Marine 60 -60 -60 $2.45
Star-brite -60 RV / Marine 32 5 -25 $2.49
Star-brite -50 RV / Marine 25 10 0 $2.37
Sea-farer -50 Marine 25 10 0 $1.90
* Concentrate. Use at 30-60% to get freeze point of -10F to -60F.
* * Product names do not always match always burst point claims, as determined from MSDS glycol concentrations and test data.
***For engine use only. Not for potable water systems. Like EG engine coolants it contains corrosion inhibitors with some toxicity.
Engine Coolant
Most RV (propylene glycol) antifreeze products are not designed for use in operating engines, and they are not optimized for corrosion protection. They contain only small amounts of corrosion inhibitors, and not the additives required in engine coolants; those additives are too toxic for potable water systems. There is no such thing as a “marine” engine coolant, in the sense that it is formulated specifically for or is better for marine applications; automobile and truck manufacturers have research this subject since the beginning of engines, and you should chose according to the engine type you have:
Gasoline or light-duty (not wet sleeve liners) diesel engine
PG or EG engine coolant * Long-life type, 5 yr., typically yellow or red.
* Conventional type, typically green.
Heavy-duty (wet sleeve liners) diesel engine
PG or EG engine coolant * Long-life type, 5 yr., typically yellow or red.
* Conventional type, typically green or pink.
Both must be rated for diesel (heavy duty) use. Some contain an SCA pre-charge of nitrite, while many of the newer formulations are nitrite-free. Nitrite-free has certain advantages for road use (nitrite can form ammonia in situ in certain brazed aluminum heat exchangers) but this makes little difference in marine engines.
Change interval. The coolant interval ratings are stated above. However, in marine applications the conventional wisdom is to change the coolant every 2 years, because of the risk of seawater contamination (0.2% is the condemning limit based upon chloride) due to heat exchanger internal leakage. Seawater is about 25,000 ppm chloride, and is also high in sufate and hardness.
(water requirements from ASTM D3306) Contaminatant in Water Maximum PPM Chloride 25 Sulfate 50 Hardness 20
Disposal (I designed and built this plant in 1995. Chemical engineer by training.))
Recycling is always best, and because of the high value of glycols, used antifreeze has a value to recyclers. Both propylene and ethylene glycol are recyclable, and they can be commingled in collection tanks at your marina, county collection center, or service station. The best recyclers distil the spent antifreeze under vacuum and produce glycols and coolant products meeting all virgin engine coolant specifications; much of the recycled product finds its way back into the cars you drive as factory fill!
Bottom Line
Buy antifreeze by the pound of glycol. In 2008, Camco -100 for water systems and Camco Ban Frost 2000 for enginesare the best deals; several others are very close, but Camco -100 has the safety factor to handle water left behind.
If your engine has a glycol cooling system, buy at the auto or truck parts store, either EG or PG. Long-life formulas are cheaper over time, though they should not generally be mixed with or used to replace conventional green antifreeze; there can be compatibility problems. The new “global” or universal” products have solved most of these issue. However, remember diesels should get diesel engine coolants; that peculiar diesel rattle produces vibrations and cavitation corrosion that automotive coolants cannot protect against.
Be wary of skimping; freeze/thaw cycling separates glycol/water mixtures and can cause bursting of complex systems and horrible fermentation problems. Be cautious with weaker products if there is any water remaining in the system. PG concentrations in the system of less than 34% are questionable at low very temperatures—the burst point curve is very steep in that range.
I wanted to choose a humorous title, but there just wasn't enough humor in the topic to pull it off. Or as I am fond of saying in unpleasant straights, "all's well that ends."
I recall the first engine troubles I had on my PDQ; just shortly after our delivery trip home the starboard engine would refuse to start. It would run just fine on ether, so it was clear it was getting no fuel. It wasn’t the fuel pump — enough was coming out the hose. I replaced the pump with a spare anyway, just to be certain and because it was easy to get to. Soon enough, after a few conversations with others, it became clear it was the carburetor, and the carburetor is just plain tough to get to on the starboard engine. I was sure I needed to pull the engine to see what was going on. Thankfully, a wise old PDQ sailor, Page83, came to the rescue with a manual and with the help of the manual I found it was actually quite simple to pull the barb off, after which cleaning and re-building it on the bench is a snap. No fuel injection, no computers. I grew up on old cars in the 70s and so it all looked familiar - just like my 76' Pacer. I hesitate admitting to that choice, but a college kid will buy anything that has reasonable milage, is cheap, and runs. Actually, the profile resembled the PDQ 32. Every so often I read of a PDQ sailor that is going to pull and engine to work on something minor, like like a carburetor cleaning. Please don’t. It's not that much fun.
During our last Delmarva trip I noticed that the starboard engine was beginning to drink oil. Where previously a few ounces would last a year, now a pint would last only a few hours, and eventually, perhaps only 20 minutes. While I was considering my options, it seized. Later investigation revealed that it did not seize in the sense that metal welded to metal; I think the combustion chamber somehow filled with oil, preventing the piston from going up (I found the intake manifold and carburetor full of oil during tear down. After draining, it turned easily). At the same time, the port engine stopped cooling. Oh, a very small portion of water was getting by, enough to just prevent overheating in cooler weather, but not enough to be safe. Because the pump had perhaps never been serviced, the lower casing refused to separate easily, or not even with heavy persuasion.
Both engines had failed at the same time.
As luck would have it, Page83 had a pair of Yamaha 9.9 engines that he had swapped out in favor of 8 hp engines with power tilt. The Yamaha tilt system on the PDQs is always a sore spot with the owners, and must finally have exceeded his tolerance. Or perhaps his wallet was just heavy enough to tip the balance in favor of ease. Either way, I became the owner of a “new” pair of moderate hour Yamaha 9.9s. After a few evenings of tuning, maintenance, and minor part replacement, they were purring in a 55-gallon drum. Of course, they were only beside my house instead of Page83’s house; they were not in the boat.
Enough rambling over how the situation evolved. Down to details.
Pulling the Old Engines
I considered dropping them out on dry land. I gave that up for a number of reasons: I had just painted the bottom with 2-year paint in August and had no other reason to haul; it seemed to me that the hole in the bottom was not quite large enough to drop the engine through—close, but not quite; several owners have described hoisting them up. In fact, it was a reasonable 1-person job. Putting them back in with 2 people was better, but could have been managed by one person with a little more time. no step was strenuous or required 2 people.
Would I haul the boat and do it on dry land, given the choice? No, I don't think so. It wouldn't be easier; it would be different. I think it was easier sliding them onto the dock than it would have been lowering them. It would have been nice to get under neither once or twice. Either way.
* Duct tape over the drain hole in front of the mounts. Bolts and tools are strongly attracted.
* Bring lots of old quilts for padding the boat! There it no slamming involved, but there is much scraping potential.
* Knee pads are a must. There is a lot of time spent leaning into the well to reach things.
* Disconnect the starter, charging, and control wires. A prudent person would take the positive cables off the batteries. A cautious person will merely be very careful not to touch black to red while disconnecting. It may only be 12 volts, but the amps are nearly unlimited.
* Disconnect the gasoline line. I my case I had to remove a Raycor fuel filter just forward of the engines.
* Disconnect the shift and throttle cables. The linkage ends are simple slide-clips. A single bolt (10 mm wrench) underneath the clamp where they enter the engine, where you can’t see it, is all that secures them to the engine. There is a rubber grommet - I slit it from underneath with a knife and removed it that way. There is a grove at the end of the cable that fits in a pair of slots next to the 10 mm bolt. If there is not enough slack to pull the cables out, don’t force them - they will come out easily enough when the motor is lifted a few inches. The only real reason to get them out now is to provide better access to the transom clamps.
* Disconnect the tilt lock lever extension. 4mm allen wrench.
* Loosen the transom clamps. In my case this step took about 2 hours of painful work for the first engine, including lubricating the bolts several weeks beforehand. There is little space to work and no wrench fits those stupid little plastic handles. It required the use of vise grips and 2 different small pipe wrenches, each one specializing in one a small arc of a full revolution. I have been told that a self adjusting socket (Sears Gator Grip http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947078000P?vName=Tools&keyword=socket+pin or Gemplers Self-Adjusting sockets http://www.gemplers.com/product/134214/5-pc-Universal-Self-adjusting-Master-Socket-Kit) will do the job; the plastic handles will need to be removed first. PB Blaster (penetrating oil available at most parts stores) is also a HUGE help. I discovered it just in time for the second engine. Just as tight as the first; after giving the PB Blaster 60 minutes to work and a few tough turns... I could turn the clamps with my fingers!
* Remove engine cowling and install a light chain lifting bridle to the flywheel. Three short 8M bolts are required.
* Position two 2x6 planks across the hard top with one end above the skylight and one hanging over the back. Lash them together, but not too tightly; you want to be able to reposition the tackle by sliding it (unloaded, of course). This will create a fore-aft adjustable mounting for your tackle. No, they do not need to be this large for strength, but it does help spread the load. (see photo below)
* Attach a 3:1 tackle between the engine and the planks, connected to the genoa winch. I used the port winch for both engines, since it is less crowded than the starboard side. You must winch through the genoa turning block to insure a good lead angle to the winch. By the way, the tackle is not needed for power; it helps slow the lifting, reduces the stress on the hardtop (140 pounds vs 220 pounds) and reduces the side pull on the planks.
* Try to minimize the stack height of the tackle and bridle so that the motor will lift clear; measure the lifting range and compare it to the length of the motor from transom lip to skeg.
* Crank away. Be aware that the winch, with a 3:1 tackle, has enough power to break the hardtop in half. Don’t force it! Be warned that the transom bolts may be driven into the mounting; rock it loose by hand and without the winch first. Any time you feel any resistance through the winch, look to see what has caught. You will start and stop many times and go up and down a few times if working alone.
* There are some clearance issues. You will need to rock the lower end to the outboard side as it comes up through the hole. Be very careful with the carburetor and the ignition wiring panels. A second person underneath would be helpful, but it is not too bad from above.
* Disconnect the engine tilt line as it comes into reach.
* Once clear of the well, set the skeg on the seat behind the well, disconnect the
tackle,and lift/slide/boost the engine up onto the padded aft cabin roof.
Engine Mount Repair
It seems PDQ could have put a few more layers of glass into this area. On both of my mounts the transom clamps had punched in about ¼-inch. This results in water getting into the core, necessitating repair. Additionally, it allows the motor to rise a bit during hard reverse, increasing the chance of sucking a lifting line into the prop (I'm guessing that the mount damage actually occurred when the hold down latch failed, allowing the line to wrap into the prop and placing a huge strain on the bolts, something they only see in reverse). The previous owner had made some ineffective repairs with Marine-Tex or something similar. The aft surface of the mounts were fine—the force is distributed over a much larger area.
A permanent repair is a simple matter of epoxying a section of ¼” pre-laminated FRP to the damaged surface using thickened epoxy. Grind everything down smooth, fill the holes, slather on a nice thick layer, and clamp it down to cure. Easy and much better than new, I think. Do confirm the maximum clamping range of your engines; This repair took me to within 1/8-inch of the maximum. If I ever need to do something with the aft surface of the mount in the future, I will need to grind off some glass and go in with something stronger instead of something thicker.
Getting Engines on and off the Boat at Dock
A piece of cake, as it turns out. A single section of an extension ladder with a piece of plywood fitted between the rails makes a nice gangplank with rails such that the engine cannot slide off into the briny.
* Secure the plywood to the rungs (a few holes with cable ties).
* Lash the ladder to the rear railing openings. It works best if you extend the ladder on-board until it touches the aft cabin roof; pad all of the contact points well. With enough padding, it is simple to spin the engine so that it goes prop first to the ladder, and then slides down the ramp. Pull it with a rope around the prop, as needed. Be careful, but the ladder rails should do a good job of keeping it centered.
Because getting the engines on-board was up-hill, we used a winch with a turning block extended from the aft hard top support. Take the cowling off the engine and use the chain lifting bridle to bring the engine up head first (to prevent the oil from going places it shouldn’t). Easy. Again, always lots of padding.
Installing the Engine
Much like pulling the engine, only more delicate… but you can see where the connections are better this time! I will discuss only those steps that are different.
* Remember to reconnect the engine lifting line! I forgot on the port engine until it was too far in to turn back. I ended up going for a swim to get it reattached. In the Chesapeake Bay in November this is not a lot of fun, but with a wet suit it wasn't really bad - just those first few moments as the water filled the suit. I have also done this from a tender before—swimming with a wet suit in 55 degree water was better than that torture. Fortunately, the water in my slip is only ~ 4 ½ feet deep, so it is more wading that swimming.
* You may need to insert the shift linkages while still a 2-6 inches above the mounts. It was different on each side. However, do not attempt to attach the cables until the motors are clamped in place.
* Lube the shift and throttle cables, while you’re at it. IF you are replacing them at the same time, there are some tips here.
* The cables may require adjustment for proper operation; mine were perfect the first time. There are threads on the end for this purpose. Take a good look at them while the engine is out, so that you understand the operation.
* Use lots of anti-seize on the transom clamp bolts! No-Alox is my favorite for aluminum joints (see comments below).
* Clean all of the power cable connections completely with emery cloth; not just the ring you removed, but the entire stack. Coat with heavy terminal grease (any auto parts store), or better, No-Alox by Ideal . It is a corrosion preventative for cable connections (synthetic grease with zinc dust), specifically for aluminum wiring, but applicable to tin and copper as well. Waterproof grease is not as good in this application. I have tested these products in a heated salt environment chamber, alongside both grease and aerosol products for a year for a sailing magazine article, and they were the winners. High resistance connections are the leading cause of cars and boats failing to start, right behind dead batteries and empty tanks!
Edition: Sixth Edition. Binding:Kindle or PDF, 159 pages
Description: The Delmarva circumnavigation demystified. Join us on the quintessential mid-Atlantic cruise. Bring whatever you have - micro-cruiser, multihull, or mid-size cruiser. On our first trip around we sailed a fast yet spartan 1200-pound Stiletto catamaran; later we enjoyed a comfortable 32-foot, 7,500-pound cruising catamaran; the experiences were different and I have shared and explained both. Primarily, I have done my best to share a tale of a father and his 10-year-old daughter's first trip around the Delmarva, exploring the Chesapeake Bay and the most beautiful wilderness on the East Coast, the Virginia Coast Preserve. Throughout the narrative are woven details and advice gained over multiple visits to each of the areas described. The balance of the guide information is compiled in extensive appendices; everything needed to make a relaxed and safe passage. In the first edition first the emphasis was on story telling and small boat cruising, demonstrating all that is possible in a micro-cruiser. In the second edition, I have added a few tales from Delmarva trips in a medium size cruiser and additional guide information reflecting the needs of larger boats.
Cobb Island Life Saving Station, built 1890. Click to enlarge.
The writing of this book has been a 8-year labor of love, summarizing all we have learned in six circumnavigations, and all we have learned of this trip from locals and other sailors. I remain baffled by how few taste the inner passage or many small harbors along the way. I grant you, the prospect and the reality of piloting changeable inlets in anything but calm conditions is intimidating , but with suitable caution and flexibility in planning, there are many fascinating possibilities. I have describe both the conventional paths, and the more adventurous and rewarding alternatives.
The distilled experience of six Delmarva cruises and countless Chesapeake Bay cruises in small and medium cruising boats.
Information to help an experienced day sailor make the step to coastal cruiser.
Our favorite towns, resorts, and stopovers... and our less favorite.
A detailed cruising guide to the Delmarva Coast, tailored to the needs of a shoal draft boat (4-foot or less). Hand drawn charts combine on-site observations and satellite imagery to provide critical information about less charted inlets.
All of the required navigation information is available on-line for free, and we have cataloged the specific URLs needed to access this world of Coast Guard and NOAA material. By downloading required charts, tide information, and Coast Pilot® chapters just prior to departure and inserting these in this convenient binder, you are assured of having the most current and complete information at your fingertips. The Delmarva coast is a very changeable area, and we have found charts even a few months old are generally out-of-date.
Shoal draft. We mean less than 5 feet. More than that is certainly plausible, and I've seen 45-footers in Chicoteague, but there are other places that are off-limits or where you will watch the tide. With a draft of less than 3 feet, a whole world opens up. With a mast height of less than 35 feet, the entire inside passage opens before you.
We went the places big boats fear and brought back the details of a world known only to watermen and local sailors. I hope I have brought real life this tale; I know how deeply I enjoyed the time spent with my daughter.
Ponies on the Beach, Assateague Island
Circumnavigating Delmarva Peninsula—A Guide for the Shoal Draft Sailor
Table of Contents
Acknowledgments
Map: Course of 2006 and 2007 trips
Preface
Preface to Second Edition
Trip Summary: Anchorages, Stops and Inlets Transited: 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, and 2012
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Departure
Lesson 1: Preparations
Day 1: Deale to Solomons Island
Lesson 2: Single-handed and Shorthanded Sailing
Day 2: Solomons Island to Cape Charles
Lesson 3: Kids
The Cape Charles Impact Crater
Plate: Smith Island, Southern Point
Day 3: Cape Charles to Wachapreague
Plate: Cobb Island, Southern End
Plate: Hog Island Inlet
Plate: Hog Island Inlet and Broad Water Area
Plate: Wachapreague Inlet
An Alternative Passage: Cape Charles to Wachapreague
by the Virginia Inside Passage
Hurricane Swells and Night Sailing; Cautionary Tales
A Brief History of Cobb Island
Day 4: Wachapreague to Chincoteague
Lesson 4: Settling Down for the Night
Day 5: Chincoteague, a Non-Sailing Day
Lesson 5: Safety
Day six: Chincoteague to Ocean City
Lesson 6: Tips for the Trailer Sailor
Day 7: Ocean City to Cape May
Days 8-11: Interregnum - Cape May with Family
Day 12: The Approaching Storm
Day 13: Cape May to Chesapeake City
Day 14: Chesapeake City to Deale
Three Weeks Later…
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Appendix I: Cruising Guide
a) Delaware Bay and Atlantic Coast from Cape Henlopen to Cape Charles
b) Camping Opportunities on the Delmarva Barrier Islands and Chesapeake Bay
c) Chesapeake Bay—Details and Corrections of Interest to the Shoal Draft Sailor
Appendix II: Access: The Delmarva Barrier Islands and Chesapeake Islands
Appendix III: Recommended Reading
Yes, I am cheap. As much as I would love to lavish buckets of money on my sailing habit, there are 401-Ks, college funds, boat payments.... More to the point, I hate throwing money at West Marine or Lay Line for things that are not so well engineered and for things that are not inherently "marine" in nature. Climbing gear is an example: sailors know sailing, climbers know falling.
Example: a few years ago special rope-handling gloves for climbers became the rage. All sorts of designs came out, none as good as sailing gloves. Eventually, the designs morphed into re-branded sailing gloves, which had already been perfected. Example: a few years ago the marine outfitters all began selling climbing-style seat harnesses for work in the rigging. Harken rep at the Annapolis Boat Show had the cheek to tell me that they had engineered in additional abrasion protection, as though the deck non-skid was more abrasive than a granite boulder! They are easily twice the price of a top-quality big wall harness sold for rock climbing.
So often vendors pretended they've had invented something new, while simply marking-up something that has been perfected in a different application over many years. In the case of climbing gear, UIAA standards set the bar for all of the fall protection standards that followed:
Recently the sailing industry has started to catch-up, though only a few short years ago they were woefully behind, yet still charging premium prices.Safety at Sea Harness and Tether Testing
Finally, a few more relevant standards, for those who crave detail. and back-up documentation:
The point is this; much of the BEST equipment for jackline and harness systems is available from rock climbing equipment sources, not marine stores. The history is longer and and the QC is better. It's not all about price.
Multihull vs. Monohull Caveat: all of my comments are directed towards families with 27- to 40-foot cruising catamarans. I'm staying with what I know. Specifically regarding jacklines, some of what I will say is all wrong for other boats. You have been warned. Marine vs. Climbing gear Caveat: Not all climbing gear is appropriate in a marine environment. Not all marine gear is suitable for crew retention. This may be a matter of function or materials of construction. For example, rock climbing seat harnesses are not designed to serve as deck harnesses and are dangerous for that purpose (they'll drown you, dragging through the water), and conventional solid gate climbing carabiners are not corrosion resistant and will seize after repeated exposure to salt water. Some climbing gear--slings, wire gate carabiners, bolt hangers--is of superior design for either environment. We'll try to keep the distinction clear. Crewed Boat vs. Single Handing Caveat. If you are single handing in anything other than warm inshore waters, assume getting separated from the boat is certain death. Keep your tethers very short and don't plan to release under any foreseeable circumstance. If you are on a crewed boat in moderate conditions, you may want to release if you are dragged, may use a longer tether, and may do without a tether entirely. A PFD alone may be safer. But as night falls, the water temperature drops, and conditions become wild, even crewed sailors may feel falling in is a death sentence. So we must realize there are a continuum of situations and more than one right answer. Personal Testing Caveat. I have tested all of the theories presented here, either rock climbing or on the water. Be very careful if you take this approach. Personal Responsibility Caveat. My blog, my rant. I deviate from the conventional wisdom here and there, with reasoning that satisfies me. I have very extensive experience climbing and mountaineering, am very comfortable on-deck, and am very comfortable with this style equipment. But ANY equipment can be misused, and I've seen very good quality marine safety equipment rigged in an unsafe manner. Just because you bought the best from a catalog doesn't mean you know how to apply it. Read everything, learn the engineering, visualize the forces involved, and be careful. Capsize Caveat. A tether on a sailing dingy or beach cat would deserve a Darwin Award. What about a sport boat driven hard or a high performance multi-hull driven to the limit? Certainly a high priority needs to be placed on releaseablity. But be warned, recent testing suggests not all quick-release attachments work under load and that some are not accessible once PFD inflates. Practical SailorMagazine is investigating this one. For cruisers, I think this is minor concern.
Jacklines. On monohulls, where these must lay on the deck, webbing is the most popular choice since it won't roll underfoot. If that is where the lines must run, then there is little choice in the matter. However, in many ways webbing is exactly the wrong material.
Durability. Any outdoor rock climber has seen many examples of webbing that have been left on a cliff somewhere to back-up a rappel anchor; after 15 years of sun exposure, they can often be removed with a good yank, their strength reduced from over 4,000 pounds to a few hundred pounds. The general consensus is that blue tubular webbing looses about 15% of its strength per year in continuous exposure in temperate latitudes, and that lighter colors weaken more quickly. Rope is a far more durable material, since there is more thickness for the UV to penetrate. Numerous long term endurance tests have been performed on braid and core ropes; generally at least 55% of the strength of the line derives from the core, and even after 10 years of use and 10 years of sun exposure, at least 60% of the strength remains. Good Old Boat and Practical Sailor have both done this sort of testing on old docklines. Still, I wouldn't push it beyond 5 years in a safety-sensitive application.
Ease of clipping. Webbing can be fussy, hanging up on the gate when I least want it to. Rope is lightening fast, particularly when paired with climbing carabiners.
Hand hold. Webbing is poor by comparison.
I use jacklines as a single hander because I don't like the idea of my boat sailing to England on autopilot. A PFD is not going to bring help and I'm not sufficiently optimistic to think help will find me. In cold weather a PFD is little help unless someone actually sees you enter the water.
I don't understand the habit of rigging jacklines only when needed. "When needed" is pretty often:
When you go on deck alone, at night outside of the cockpit.
When the wind is over 15 knots.
When a thunderstorm blows up.
When something needs repair in an awkward position while underway.
When the chute is up.
In other words, nearly every day when cruising. Jacklines should be permanent, like seatbelts, and rope jacklines can be set permanently, like the rest of the boat's rigging. They should not be a temporary measure or an afterthought; they should be a designed part of the boat suitable for everyday use without getting in the way. You need to practice with them.
Once I watched a video of an ocean racing boat losing a man overboard (he was recovered, with some difficulty). It wasn't very rough; he simply was less than mindful of the action around him, was not clipped in, and simply slid across the cockpit and between the life lines (the center line had been removed in the quest to save weight). The main reason people don't clip in, right behind not taking the dangers seriously, is that it's a hindrance. That may have been a factor. Like many racing boats the cockpit was a cluttered mess of ropes and the jackline went over and under the many control lines. The jackline and tethers were a safety after thought, not a reality that the boat or sailing practices were designed around or a reality that the sailors trained with. Removing the center lifeline was just plain stupid. If you're going to use jacklines and tethers on your boat you need to practice with them, day after day, integrating them into the flow of lines and work so they are NOT a hindrance but rather a useful part of the rigging. Climbers are tied in all the time, and we spend years working out systems and routines that prevent us from getting caught up in our knitting.
Spare Halyard as Jackline--Don't Do It. I have heard of a spare halyard being used as a tether in fair weather only; nothing to add, nothing to trip over, and easy to get back on deck. I tried it. If there is enough slack in the halyard to reach the bow sitting down, then when standing on the cabin top there is enough slack to wrap the halyard around the spreaders. In a monohull, you will swing out over the water and drag until the boat tacks. This system is unsafe.
Location. Multihulls have a huge advantage when setting jacklines; they have a wide bow area. A common rational for having very tight jacklines is that the working area at the bow goes to zero and the sailor must to be held very tight to stay on the boat. He is safe from excessive jackline impact forces because he is not going to fall/slide far enough to generate them. Multihulls also have a disadvantage in that there is a lot more deck to cover, and that means longer tethers. Longer tethers mean longer falls and more fall energy. A tether of adjustable length, with multiple clipping points or 2 legs, is required. Mine have 2 clipping points: one very long where I can reach everything from either jackline, and one much shorter. I use the former in fair weather (when the only risk is tripping over my own feet) and the latter when it's nasty. both options are long enough to be remain clipped to the jacklines while re-entering the cockpit.
Even with adjustable tethers, this additional beam means the multi-hull sailor must design for greater impact energy.
The jackline in the photo is not rod-tight, though there is less slack than it appears. It can be moved about 12-inches side-to-side. They are 5/8-inch dock line and will retain sufficient strength through 5 years of continuous exposure. They are not underfoot and they can be clipped from the cockpit.
My jacklines are attached to the inboard edge of the tramp about 4 feet back from the beam, and to through-bolted hand holds on the hard top. The front beam could hold any load. I am certain the hard-top supports would distort at peak load, but not fail completely. This compromise makes sense to us, as it places the jackline in a safer position; we recognize this. The jacklines run above the deck, serving as a second railing, and we use these and the life lines as twin railings when going forward.; if you pull upwards against them, rather than lean on them, they add much stability. They are not under foot on the side decks as you walk around the side of the cabin. The side decks are also free of genoa tracks and sheets; these are farther aft, in a non-traffic area. Each boat will present its own challenges and solutions, so don't feel tied to convention. Experiment, but think it through from an engineer's view point. Do be certain that all attachments are through-bolted. Lifeline stanchions, for example, are too often only screwed into a rotted wooden block. Two 5/16-inch bolts or a single 3/8-inch bolt with a good backing are a conservative design basis to achieve 5,000-pound strength in shear (assuming a 1/4-inch solid glass deck--with cores or thinner decks consideration must be given to compression and shear).
Be certain the tethers will not allow a fallen sailor near a prop, a deadly hazard on any boat with a transom mounted outboard. This is not an issue on the PDQ because the engines are well forward and inboard, but it was a serious concern on any boat with a transom mounted outboard.
Be certain the tethers do not allow the sailor to go out of reach of the transom. Self rescue will be impossible. Better, see if you can go over the side, and if you can, see that you can get back on board with the boat moving.On boats with high freeboard, it is generally impossible, even for a fit individual.
A center jackline is another option; I've seen this on a Gemini and it looked practical. On one hand it would be impossible to fall over the side, but on the other, there is less security against being washed to leeward when on the windward side. I do not believe it is as safe on a monohull, which leans. Although there is a new fad, suggesting lifelines should be run down the middle, I have not heard any stories of folks falling of the boat uphill, to windward. It just doesn't happen. A windward jackline is safer because you are farther from the leeward rail. Just make sure you work from the windward line as much as possible.
Children. This generation grows up being belted into a car and wearing bike helmets. My daughter grew up, starting when she was crawling, wearing a harness and tether on-board. She liked it, and Daddy led by example. I much prefer tethers to PFDs for kids. They get more freedom, and Dad doesn't have a stroke every time a little one leans near the edge, gazing at the waves, or stumbles near an edge. Harnesses are much cooler on hot days--when it's 100F and humid, requiring a PFD means staying home. A parental eye is still required, and the harness must be fit so securely that Houdini couldn't escape. Yes, the law requires PFDs for small children. We very seldom did--they are so uncomfortable for small one--but we used the harness every time. However,harnesses often require some customization; this harness had an extra webbing adjustment added in the back, as the original design was insecure on a small child.
Shock Absorption. Rock climbers rely on both climbing rope stretch to prevent a very short fall from generating impact loads well into the thousands of pounds. The body can absorb only so much, and the anchor points can only withstand so much. I once had this conversation with the gentleman who was fitting tight stainless steel cable jacklines to his 45-foot yacht, in preparation for a trip to Bermuda. I explained to him that because his cables were strung guitar string tight, it would take only a modest force to pull the anchors right out of the deck. He assured me that all components could take a 5,000-pound strain. I asked him, would he mind if I gave the cable a good strong yank, just with my hands, as a test. He said "knock yourself out--don't hurt yourself. Those fittings can hold a car." I wrapped a rag around my hand, gave a sharp tug, and snapped the 1/4-inch high-strength shackle holding the cable to the aft pad eye. He couldn't decide whether to be mad at me or embarrassed. I apologized anyway, but for a few dollars it was a cheap lesson. He grumbled something about "defective parts." (The 1/4" shackle had a rated breaking strain of 4,400 pounds and a SWL of 1,450 pounds, I was told. After muttering something about "defective equipment" he replaced the 1/4-inch shackle and turnbuckle with a high tech lashing. I'm still not sure he got the point, since the entire system had been strained to the very limit by a weakling.)
A jackline should never be made from material with no stretch (OK monohull guys--breath deep. This is catamaran advice, and the rules are a bit different. The jacklines are inboard and there is no skinny bow.). A jackline should never be rigged absolutely tight. Think of it this way; a jackline is like a tight rope, and the less deflection that is permitted the greater the initial tension of the rope must be. If only a 5% deflection is achieved, then the applied force is multiplied by about 10 times. You can slice the data many ways with engineering calculations (Sample Calculations for Jacklines); it becomes clear that 200-pound sailor that is propelled across the deck by a breaking wave or loses his balance falling off a wave in just the right way will cross the deck at a modest running speed. His body must have at least 2 feet to decelerate or the stress on the jackline will exceed 5,000 pounds and something will break. That stretch must come from the jackline or from a special shock absorbing tether. Not one of those self-retracting tethers sold at the marine store with a shock cord down the middle and not one of the new tethers with an over-stress indicator; a tether designed with sacrificial stitching for use in climbing or the construction trade. These sacrificial tethers were invented by rock climbers (see Yates Ice Screamer to the left above) and grafted into the construction trade. Most of these begin absorbing force in the 400-800 pound range and extend several feet when fully expended; about right for this application. I wouldn't be at all surprised to see marine tethers adopting this feature in a few more seasons, implying through advertising literature that it's a new invention and not just a new application. The new marine tethers have one row of expendable stitching that indicates over stress but does nothing to reduce the stress. A poor and confusing design choice, in the eyes of OSHA and the climbing community. Rather like closing the barn door after the horses have left; "Oh, see here, your harness nearly failed", rather than preventing the failure.
The longer the jackline, the less stretch is needed, the short the the line the more stretch is needed, within limits. A steel cable or even polyester braid, if employed as a rock climbing rope, would be fatal to the climber; the impact force is too great. A bungee cord would be fatal too; the excessive stretch increases the probability of a ground or ledge fall. For the sailor, the strain on the jackline system must be kept below 5,000 pounds. The strain on the tether must stay below 1,000 pounds to achieve that, which indicates a side deflection of 2-3 feet, which equates to a stretch of about 2-3% at 5,000 pounds of strain. This rules out wire and most high-tech lines if they are conservatively sized. 1/2-inch polyester yacht braid seems about right for catamarans with 30-foot long jacklines. 7/16-inch line would be strong enough, but the extra size allows for aging losses and reduces is stretch into the optimum range. Mine are 1/2-inch nylon dock line and are only 22 feet long--it's what I had on-hand and the math works out the same. Given their size, they will be safe for 7-8 years or until they chafe. For jacklines 40-50 feet long, the math changes and high tech lines should be spot-on with regard to stretch, but the strength requirement goes up to 7,000 to 9,000 pounds. Amazing, but easy to achieve with the new materials. The range of calculated answers is broad, because of difference in geometries. One size never seems to fit all. I suggest you have an engineer friend take a look at your arraignment with these shock absorption concepts in mind.
Tethers--Construction.Why webbing instead of rope? Rope tethers look a lot like running rigging. Webbing is less prone to rolling under foot. Unlike the jacklines, it won't likely be in the sun enough for UV damage to matter. This is the conventional choice.
Don't use Spectra webbing for tethers; it has too little stretch. Yes, climbers use it for anchors but NEVER where it will be required to absorb the energy of a fall without some rope in the system for cushioning. Used as a cockpit tether, it would be equivalent to steel cable and would damage either the anchor or the sailor. Nylon webbing tethers have a small amount of give.
If you opt for 2-leg tethers--and you should--the lengths should suit your boat. The standard 3'/6' split is really too long for most boats. I use 2' for the short tether (including carabiners), which suits work at the bow and on the side decks, and 8' for the long tether (catamarans have broad bows).
We pre-rig tethers to each side, clipped port and starboard. Thus, if we need to go forward quickly and even if we have tacked since the last tether use, there is always a tether rigged on the required side. As I have stated earlier, we leave the tethers clipped to the jackline when we come off the deck. I should clarify that I very seldom harness in the cockpit; ours is very deep, is surrounded by hard-top supports an winches, and falling out would be very nearly impossible. Consider your individual situation.
What about climbing rope for tethers? In fact, that is my preferred solution, as the shock absorption is much have discussed this at length. However, the downsides are that knotted tethers are bulky and sewing climbing rope is only properly done by people that specialize in climbing rope. It is easy to do wrong. I tested many samples of my work.
The best option is to buy a 2-leg tether from Kong. The price is reasonable, the Tango clips are the best available, the long leg is elasticized, and the price is not much more than the hardware bought separately.
Tethers--Length and Getting Back On-board. In the best of all worlds tether length and jackline position are such that falling off is not possible. That must be addressed on a boat-by-boat basis due to geometry differences. Often having 2 length options on a tether will help. But let's assume for the moment you can fall over.
Can you get back aboard? With a full crew, someone may be able to man-haul you aboard. Let's disregard that option for the typical cruising family; they lack the horsepower, depending on who went over. There is always the option of cranking them up with the spinnaker halyard. Again, not dependable with a family crew. Not enough hands and not enough horsepower.
I suggest trying to reboard without assistance, with you crew slowly motoring ahead. Don't strain yourself either; this must be easy or it will not work if you are injured or unconscious. Gently--there is no point in risking injury--lower yourself easily over the side and see what works. It will be very difficult. Realistically, the victim is likely to be Dad, as he goes forward to wrestle with the jib in terrible conditions. Poor old Dad. Logically, the answer is to combine this with your MOB hoisting practice, as we have. Fun on a hot day. After this sobering exercise you will probably shorten your tethers.
Tethers--2 Legs are Better Than One. For most boats tethers really need to be adjustable in length; a short leg for the bow and getting past the cabin trunk, and a longer length for use around the mast, and in the case of catamarans, on the foredeck. Being able to clip two points, so that you never unhook, can also be vital. My two-leg tethers are described here.
Carabiners. Wire gate aluminum carabiners hold up very well, and the anodized ones do best. Conventional climbing carabiners rapidly seize-up due to corrosion--avoid them. Locking carabiners must be religiously lubricated or they will also freeze up, though I have had good luck with screw gate locking biners on the jackline end--I am very careful to keep them greased several times each year. Even if they only last 4-8 seasons--I retire them to other uses if there are any signs of wear--I prefer them as they are much cheaper and three times lighter than their stainless steel cousins, which means they are easy on the gel coat. I prefer non-auto-locking biners; those are sometimes fussy and occationally fail to lock in ice climbing and dusty climbing environments. However, many have reported that they are very happy with auto-locking biners on jacklines if kept lubricated. Locking biners are required on the jackline or u-bolt end since there are many obstructions that can force the gate open and un-clip the biner.
The Kong Tango is a popular tether carabiner, suitable for either the harness or jackline end. However, they do require seasonal lubrication.
The text below is from the ISO standard. All conventional (non-locking) carabiners will fail this test. Why is this not deadly to rock climbers? They do not go in circles around the anchors. The weight of the rope generally holds the biner in a fixed orientation. They clip either to runners (short slings) or purpose-designed bolt hangers that resist this action. And they use locking carabiners where there is some risk or redundancy is lacking.
5.4 Accidental hook opening testing
5.4.1 The tendency of the hook to accidentally become detached from its attachment point shall be tested using the following three styles of attachment point, made from 8 mm diameter rod: a) a straight rod; b) an eye bolt of internal radius 10 mm; c) U-bolts of internal radius 15 mm and 20 mm.
5.4.2 Move the hook by hand as far as is possible in the following directions with the attachment point mounted vertically: a) move forward and backward, right and left without any rotation, movement being in the horizontal plane; b) rotate in the horizontal plane by up to 360° using the attachment point as the axis, rotating both clockwise and anticlockwise; c) rotate in the vertical plane by up to 360° about the axis of the hook, rotating both clockwise and anticlockwise; d) rotate in the vertical plane by up to 360° about an axis running through the attachment point, rotating both clockwise and anticlockwise.
The hook fails the test if it releases from the attachment point. If the hook closure mechanism is shown to open but not release, this will also constitute a failure, as release would probably occur with geometry of different dimensions.
No hook will fail a test on an attachment point where its use is clearly and permanently warned against in accordance with 6 g).
Not Spinlock Race Tethers. They can rotate off a U-bolt ...
.. Or if pressed against a railing.
This is not so clear on the harness end, so I formerly used ordinary wire gate biners there, though now I use the Kong Tango and like it better. There, I've said it, counter to the "new" conventional wisdom that spinnaker shackles should be used on the harness end so that a sailor can free himself in the event of a roll-over or knock down. I don't care for spinnaker shackles--I've seen too many spinnakers fly away when the lanyard hooked on something or because the locking pin was not fully inserted. My thoughts:
I am not concerned about a carabiner unclipping from a harness; in 25 years of climbing, I never heard of it. Unclip from fixed anchors, certainly, but not from the harness end. However, we have switched to the Kong Tango carabiners, for a little added security.
I can clip a conventional biner 100 times, in the dark hanging from a cliff, with gloves on, and never get it wrong; I've done it. Same with the Tango. I'm sure I can't get a spinnaker shackle right 100 times in a row on a nice day on a bouncing foredeck; I've done that too and seen a few sails kite away.
Clipping a wire gate or Tango carabiner is a one-hand job. A spinnaker shackle takes 2 hands.
I believe the chance of a capsize on a cruising cat, compared to a knock down on a monohull is much lower. Possible, but remote compared to all other risks.
I have a great deal of confidence that I can un-hook a conventional biner under load in adverse circumstances; after 30 years of climbing, I am very familiar with the tricks and don't have to think about them. I've unclipped while being dragged beside the boat at 5 knots; not easy, but it took only seconds. I am not prone to panic. Better than risking accidental release.
Most sailors leave the harness end clipped and unclip the jackline end off when going below. We do the opposite; the harness end is clipped off and the tether remains in place on the jackline for the next user. Otherwise, the sailor would have to go on-deck to clip in. For our boat configuration, this is safer and more convenient. It is also a reason why a carabiner works for us at the harness end. The jackline end is ALWAYS a locking biner.
It has been suggested that a sailor should always carry a sheath knife to cut a tether loose. My personal guess is that I am more likely to inadvertently stab myself than to benefit from the knife's close proximity. My choice. I do keep a folding knife in my pocket and there is always a knife at the helm.
What does the ISAF have to say about carabiners? "Warning: it is possible for a for a plain snap hook to disengage from a u-bolt if the hook is rotated under load at right angles to the axis of the u-bolt. For this reason the use of snaphooks with positive locking devises is strongly recommended." Very true. In fact, even a locking carabiner or snap hook will fail at a small fraction of its rated strength in that circumstance, since the gate is intended to retain the rope but not to carry cross-loading strain. I have seen gates collapse under little more than body weight. Rock climbers discovered this in the late 40s and it became common practice to connect to fixed points with a flexible sling. If you are going to attach to a fixed point, consider extending the hard point with a short strong sling, allowing the carabiner to ride away from the deck and hardware. In fact, this is much easier to arrange at the mast, helm, or bow pulpit, as often no new hardware is required; only a strong loop, easily rigged and easily removed.
On the other hand, this from a sailor with releasable snap shackles on his tether: "The replacement tether I bought from West Marine (ISAF Specification Safety Tether, No. 9553504) has a new toggle on the snap-shackle release lanyard that consists of an open triangle of plastic.This is dangerous, in my opinion! In my first few hours of using the new tether, in moderate sea conditions, I managed to
snag the triangular loop on something and release the snap shackle. I am now replacing all triangular loop pulls with bead pulls that I have crafted myself."
This is apparently the reason West Marine now uses the Kong Tango carabiner. I suspect we are going to see a general move away from spinnaker shackles on tethers. We'll see. Everything is a compromise.
There is also this counter point, from Andrew evans, one of the world's most expereinced singlehanders, excerpted from his free on-line book on singlehanding:
_______
Some boaters insist on locking carabiners. I have no problem with this concept as long as they can be quickly and easily fastened and unfastened blindly with one hand. In nine years of running all over my boat dragging my tether, I have never had a carabiner detach from the jack lines or my harness, so I don’t feel that a locking mechanism is necessary. I have heard of situations where the jack line runs parallel to a sheet and the carabiner runs onto the sheet. My suggestion is to move the jack line to a new position where this can not happen. Some races insist on a quick release mechanism for the clip. I disagree with this concept. First, I have never seen a quick release mechanism that can be easily fastened with one hand. If this can’t be done, it won’t be used for the reasons mentioned above. Second, I can not imagine the circumstances were I would want to be detached from the boat. Even if I am thrown overboard and dragging injured beside the boat, this is a much better situation than watching the boat sail away. I can see the safety advantage of a quick release on a crewed boat, but not singlehanding. The tether must be long enough so that the skipper can move from rail to rail without unclipping during normal tacking or gybing. After a tack, it will be necessary to unclip from the leeward jack line and clip to the windward jack line in order to walk up the windward side of the boat.
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And thus, even with ISAF, the carabiner at the harness end is not required to be locking. Locking is a very good idea--I like the Kong Tango--but it remains a choice. At the jackline or u-bolt end, I repeat, a locking biner is required by rule, experience, and common sense.
I have heard it suggested that aluminum carabiners are subject to cracking if dropped. There is some minor truth in that, but the caution applies to drops from great heights onto rocks. I've abused biners of many designs on weekly climbing trips, some for 30 years. Two have been retired due to hairline cracks in the gate mechanism; it was a design error that was retired 25 years ago. However, I did pull one of the cracked biners to destruction on a test rig, just to see; it made it to 3,800 pounds. There are no rocks to drop them against on your boat.
Never use a non-locking carabiner as a shackle substitute up in the rigging, for example as a halyard shackle. You'll be hating life when it clips on to the upper shrouds and won't come down! I didn't do it, but I heard the swearing from down the dock. They are nice for hoisting the dingy, securing the boom, and a host of minor conveniences.
Seat Harnesses. For use on deck, climbing seat harnesses are completely inappropriate; in the water they will hold your head under, whereas a chest harness will hold your head-up... sort of. For use up the mast, big wall seat harnesses are best. They were designed for days spent on the big vertical walls in Yosemite. Yates Mountaineering makes some of the best. A few minutes or an hour up the mast is a piece of cake. The so-called "marine" versions and "riggers" harnesses are just watered down wall harnesses. Also, a harness should fit the individual just as a shoe fits the foot. Go to a store and try the harness on. Any good climbing store will have a rope that you can hang from for a little while, so your backside can tell you how it fits and your legs can try to go to sleep. Important cautions, marked on the harness:
The accessory loops on the waist belt are for hanging tools, NOT attaching safety lines.
Buckling the waist correctly is VERY important; 20 years ago I watched a teenager fall out of a harness from 200 feet up and land 30 feet from me, all because the belt was not buckled properly. It must be snug to the smallest part of the waste in such a way that it cannot be pulled down in the event of an inverted fall. The webbing must double back through the buckle in the require manner and have a minimum free tail length, typically 3 inches (6 inches is better, in case you gain weight or are wearing more clothes).
Chest Harness Fit. I see many worn low and loose at the lower edge of the rib cage. I see this on round-the-world race sailors, but that doesn't make them right, not in this one case. Does it feel safer, like a life jacket? I think so, and it makes it easier to move and more comfortable with foul weather gear. I understand. Still, it's enough to make a climber cringe. Climbers have been killed that way, back in the days when climbers wore chest harnesses. Falls caused a broken ribs and the sharp ends punctured lungs. They need to be worn up higher, nearer the arm pits and certainly above the edge of the ribs. It's likely that if I were sailing the southern oceans for weeks, showered in near-freezing water I would change my tune. I would be a world class sailor and very confident of my abilities. I also have done a good bit of easier (for me) rock and ice climbing without a rope, because it was faster, because it was safe enough for me, and for the thrill of it. That doesn't make it smart; it is a poor habit that experienced climbers can get away with, and it sets a terrible example for new comers.
This poses a challenge for women, something learned as my daughter grew. A full vest of some sort would help, but that is impractical in warm weather and not comfortable the rest. It seems all that can be done if to watch tether length and to wear the harness as high as possible. After I took the above photos I realized the problem and made some adjustments to the fit.
Slings. A staple of the rock climber's anchor inventory, these are sewn loops of various high-tech materials, ranging in length from 6 inches to 48 inches. They can be used for everything from sail tack extensions, to anchors for securing yourself while working at the masthead, to secondary anchor attachment points (prusik hitch them to the rode, and clip the secondary rode to that--it makes untangling after tide swings easier. A hundred uses that you will only discover over time and perhaps by reading a book on rock climbing. Cheap compared to "marine" alternatives and very strong.
Acmeclimbing - Stainless Bolt Hanger
I'm not generally suggesting these for direct jackline attachments; they present a cutting hazard to webbing (sharp edge--attach the jackline using a shackle or other smooth hardware). On our boat, they work well for cabin-top attachments. Not for use as cockpit tether anchors: they are designed to take load in one direction and parallel to the surface; cockpit tether loads are more variable. Any application would need to considered the above factors.
Some Thoughts from Charles Kanter. A guru of catamaran sailing. Jack Lines. We seem to agree on most everything, for catamarans, except my desire to keep jacklines rigged at all times. He too promotes inboard lines using dockline. I guess we've kicked the same rocks.
I hope you have enjoyed my ramblings; they were just a few ideas I wanted to share. I've been involved in roped climbing and mountaineering for over 30 years, been on thousands of routes all over the country on both rock and ice, and fallen on a rope thousands of times. I have tested my ideas and never had a major gear failure. In other words, I have had gear failures and learned from them, and always had backup systems in place that were adequate. Just as every sailor should be a solid swimmer, I believe every sailor should learn the basics of climbing and fall protection in order to understand the systems involved. I have not provided that knowledge here. Take a class - you may like it enough to give up sailing. Think of all the money you'll save.
There's nothing like a nice frosty icefall! Sizing-up a New Hampshire waterfall a few years ago.
Gale warning have been up for the past few days, as autumn arrives for real, which means... raking leaves. It also is time to look around the yard to see what is wanting for attention.
A year ago we had to take a few large trees out. One of them ended up as a totem pole, courtesy of my father's talents. Though we share some small bit of Native American blood, it is not from a tribe that practiced this tradition. Still, it seemed worthwhile, and he worked a few family images into the project. 
